Situated in the Kimberley region, Halls Creek is positioned 423 metres above sea level and is located 358 km south of Kununurra and 546 km east of Derby. If you're travelling from Perth via Highway 1, it is approximately 2,962 km to the north-east.
Halls Creek is an unusual town that presents an intriguing mix of modernity and history. It predominantly caters to the Aboriginal community while serving the tourism and pastoral industries. The town was physically relocated to its current position in 1948, which continued until 1954, when the previous township was abandoned. The move was necessitated by a combination of water scarcity and the re-routing of the Derby-Kununurra Road (now Highway 1), which avoided meandering through the old town's hills.
Today, Halls Creek is a small settlement that accommodates the growing tourism industry with a hotel, motel, supermarket and an aerial tour operator that offers trips to the Bungle Bungles (now Purnululu National Park) and Wolfe Creek Crater.
Pre-European Era and Gold Rush
Before European settlers arrived, the Jaru and Kija First Nation people inhabited the district for millennia. In 1856, Augustus Charles Gregory explored the southern area, while Alexander Forrest first explored the region in 1879. The year 1884 saw geologist Hardman noting gold on the Elvire River.
Halls Creek Gold Rush
The significant discovery of gold on July 14, 1885, triggered a gold rush, attracting miners from distant places like New Zealand and the eastern states. Thousands flocked to the Kimberley goldfields via ports at Wyndham and Derby between 1885 and 1887. The Halls Creek gold rush was historic as it was Western Australia's first find of payable gold.
Growth and Decline
Russian Jack's remarkable wheelbarrow journey from Derby to Halls Creek in 1886 and the subsequent discovery of gold in Coolgardie led to Halls Creek's decline by 1888. Despite its initial promise, the goldfields yielded 8,668 ounces of gold by the end of its lifespan, with only 70 Europeans residing there by 1890.
Shifts and Modern Era
In the early 20th century, notable events included Jimmy Darcy's accident in 1917, prompting the construction of a hospital by the Australian Inland Mission in 1918. The 1930s saw the establishment of a mission by the Catholic Church's Pallotine Order at Rockhole, later moved 250 km south. The town was physically relocated in 1948, leading to the abandonment of the old township by 1954. The Police Station was moved to the new town in 1961.
Recent Years and Demographics
In more recent times, Ernie Bridge, once Halls Creek's mayor, became Western Australia's first Aboriginal member of parliament in 1980. However, tragic incidents occurred, such as the disappearance and tragic discovery of James Annetts and Simon Amos in the Great Sandy Desert in 1986. In 2013, Halls Creek was labelled the most disadvantaged town in Western Australia. Presently, Halls Creek is a predominantly First Nations community, with the 2016 census reporting 67.6% identifying as Aboriginal.
Statue of Russian Jack
The statue of Russian Jack (Ivan Fredericks) stands facing the Council Offices on the Great Northern Highway, commemorating a local "character" who achieved a remarkable feat in 1886. He pushed a wheelbarrow from Derby to the Halls Creek goldfield, a distance of several hundred kilometres.
According to local legend, he encountered a prospector who was exhausted and unable to continue his journey just thirty kilometres short of the goldfield. Russian Jack put the prospector on his wheelbarrow and pushed him for the remaining thirty kilometres to their destination.
Statue of Jack Jugarie
The statue of Jack Jugarie, situated in Memorial Park on the Great Northern Highway, commemorates the life of a Jaru Elder who served as a skilled Police Tracker.
At the age of 70, he accomplished an extraordinary feat by walking 350 kilometres from Halls Creek to Wyndham. He relied on his traditional skills to find food and water and used the stars to navigate his way across the country. The statue stands as a testament to his remarkable journey and the legacy he left as a skilled tracker.
Heritage Town Walk
At the Travel & Tourism Centre, you can obtain a Heritage Town Walk brochure. However, it is equally feasible to explore the town by wandering around and reading the nine hand-crafted wooden totems which recount the history and culture of the town and the district. The walk takes approximately 40 minutes and offers a fascinating insight into the region's past and present.
Moola Bulla Lookout
To the north of Halls Creek lies a lookout that holds significant importance to the local First Nation people. It offers breathtaking views of the town and its surrounding countryside, especially during sunset. To reach the lookout, drive 3.2 km out of town on Roberta Avenue, then take the track on the right at the entrance to Moola Bulla Station. Continue for 500 m and then ascend the hill to the lookout.
Rock Hole
Longleg Rockhole, situated 11 km west of Halls Creek on the Great Northern Highway, is a water hole that provides a glimpse into the area's dependence on water. The rock hole was initially used by the local Aboriginal community, but with the arrival of European settlers, it was repurposed to water the livestock on Koongie Park Station.
Old Halls Creek
It's difficult to fathom that Old Halls Creek, the location of the first significant gold discovery in 1885, now lies in ruins 16 km away from the town. Today, all that remains are remnants of buildings, street signs, the ruins of the old mud brick Post Office, a well that commemorates the discovery of gold in the area, and a cemetery. In 2002, the ruins of the Post Office were protected from the damaging effects of the "wet" season by a building constructed over it.
Old Halls Creek Cemetery
The cemetery offers a poignant glimpse into the region's harsh living conditions during the late 19th century. While many of the graves date back to the 1940s and 1950s, one stands out as a grim reminder of the outback's unforgiving nature. In 1909, a man perished in the Tanami Desert due to dehydration, underscoring the constant battle with the elements that life in the outback entails. As the town's information directory notes, "The Kimberley in itself is not inherently dangerous. But an even greater degree than the sea, it is unforgiving of carelessness, ignorance and impatience." The cemetery is also home to the famous grave of James 'Jimmy' Darcy, whose inspiring story in 1917 became the inspiration for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
The Story of Jim Darcy
Jim Darcy, a stockman at Ruby Plains Station, suffered a serious injury while mustering cattle, prompting a desperate attempt to get medical help. Friends transported him to Halls Creek, a 12-hour buggy journey, but the town lacked a doctor or hospital. The postmaster, Tuckett, sought aid via telegraph, finding no available doctors in nearby towns due to holidays. Dr. J. Holland, contacted in Perth via Morse code, diagnosed Darcy's ruptured bladder and instructed an immediate operation, guiding Tuckett through a seven-hour procedure without anesthesia or proper medical instruments.
Despite the successful operation, complications arose, necessitating a doctor in Halls Creek. However, Darcy passed away before Dr. Holland's arrival after a strenuous journey. This incident captured the nation's attention and inspired Rev. John Flynn to establish the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Darcy's plight brought focus to the challenges of medical services in remote areas, prompting Flynn's groundbreaking initiative in outback medicine.
The China Wall
On the 16 km journey to Old Halls Creek, visitors will encounter the town's primary tourist attractions. Six kilometres outside of town on the Duncan Highway, a sign leads to the China Wall, a peculiar limestone formation that stands 6 meters tall, rising from a creek up the side of a small hill.
The white quartz formation resembles a miniature Great Wall of China and is known as Burraluba in the Jaru language and Mulugunjiny in the Kija language by the local Aboriginal community. The stream below is surrounded by trees, making it a perfect spot for swimming during the "green season" or wet season.
Caroline Pool
Caroline Pool, a well-known local swimming spot, is located 15 km from Halls Creek en route to Old Halls Creek. When the creek is full, it resembles the gorges along the MacDonnell Ranges in Central Australia. The river flows through two cliffs, creating a deep pool in a gorge.
Art Around Halls Creek
The Halls Creek Shire is home to five art centres and galleries where you can appreciate and purchase local artwork. These include:
The artwork of the region has achieved international recognition. If you are interested in exploring these galleries, begin your journey at the Travel & Tourism Centre, where you can receive valuable advice and guidance.
Wolfe Creek Crater
Wolfe Creek Crater, known as Kandimalal to the Jaru Aborigines, is situated 153 km south of Halls Creek along the unsealed Tanami Road. It was named after Robert Tennant Stowe Wolfe, a digger and storekeeper who lived in Halls Creek in the late 1880s. Traditional owners believe the crater was formed when the rainbow serpent raised its head from the ground during creation. While there is some debate over its classification, it is considered to be one of the world's largest meteorite craters. The crater has a diameter of 850-950 meters and a depth of 61 meters, offering a breathtaking sight of great symmetry and beauty. Erosion of the crater has been sluggish due to the area's aridity. The age of the crater is thought to be around 2 million years old, though this is uncertain.
Distance from Perth: 2,962 km NE of Perth
Population: 1,605
Postcode: 6770
Founded: 1887