The region surrounding Derby, home to the Warrwa First Nation people for approximately 40,000 years, witnessed significant European exploration and settlement. Captain Read's voyage on the Cygnet in 1688, accompanied by William Dampier, marked the initial European contact documented in "A New Voyage Round the World" upon Dampier's return to England. Phillip Parker King's explorations from 1818 to 1822 encompassed Western Australia and the Northern Territory, lending his name to King Sound. Subsequent expeditions by George Gray and John Stokes led to the naming of the Fitzroy River and Stokes Bay along the eastern coast of King Sound in 1837.

European settlement gradually emerged in 1879, catalysed by Alexander Forrest's enthusiastic reports describing the area's potential for agriculture and pastoral activities. The Murray Squatting Company established a sheep station at Yeeda in 1880, coinciding with the inception of Derby's landing port and the arrival of The Ruby, commanded by Captain Pemberton Walcott. Derby was officially proclaimed in 1883, witnessing significant wool losses due to a tidal wave caused by the Krakatoa volcanic explosion.

The town's evolution continued with the construction of its first jetty in 1885, concurrent with Charlie Hall's gold discovery in Halls Creek, attracting prospectors through the port. The arrival of the MacDonald brothers and the subsequent Halls Creek gold rush briefly altered the town's dynamics. However, by the 1890s, the port predominantly reverted to exporting live cattle and sheep.

Historical events, including conflicts such as Jandamarra's actions against Constable Richardson, the consolidation of tribes in the Kunmunya Presbyterian mission, and the relocation of local Aborigines to Mowanjum in 1960, shaped the town's social fabric. Industrial endeavours, such as iron ore mining at Cockatoo Island in 1951 and the construction of a new jetty in 1964 for live cattle exports, marked significant shifts in Derby's economic landscape. The town's maritime significance gradually declined, with the last passenger ship visit in 1973 and the final commercial ship in 1980, concluding an era that saw 51 vessels visiting the port.

Attractions

Derby is a small service town with a huge wharf surrounded by unique and special attractions. Its importance for visitors lies in its position at the western end of the Gibb River Road.

Jandamarra and the "Pigeon" Heritage Trail

The Pigeon Heritage Trail uncovers the story of Jandamarra's rebellion against early European settlers. It includes locations around Derby, Windjana Gorge, and Tunnel Creek.

Starting at Sutherland Street's old cemetery, where Police Constable Richardson, Pigeon's first victim, is buried. Pigeon shot Richardson in 1894 after betrayal, freeing prisoners and leading an ambush against stockmen near Windjana Gorge. The attack succeeded, causing reprisals leading to Pigeon's two-year hideout in Tunnel Creek Cave. Despite assumptions of his demise, he resurfaced in 1896, evading capture until his death in 1897.

Old Derby Gaol

The National and State Heritage site, the Old Derby Gaol, stands on Loch Street and is the oldest building in the town, dating back to 1906. Strategically located at the midpoint between the port and the town centre, it formed a part of the Police Station and was utilised by the Police Horse Patrol. The gaol is also one of the significant landmarks in the Pigeon Heritage Trail.

Wharfingers House Museum

If you are interested in exploring the history of the town, you can visit the museum located on Loch Street. However, it is only open on request. The museum boasts an array of displays, including exhibitions on the town's communication history, the SS Colac, and the early aviation and shipping history. To access the museum, you can ask for the key at the Derby Visitor Centre.

Old Cemetery

Lovegrove Street's old cemetery, an integral part of the Pigeon Heritage Trail, is home to the final resting place of Police Constable William Richardson, Pigeon's first victim. Additionally, the cemetery also houses the grave of 'Larry' Kunamarra, an Aboriginal tracker who was recognized for his services by Queen Elizabeth II.

Prison Boab Tree

The boab tree served as the final stopover point for patrols returning to Derby. With the ability to hold numerous prisoners, the tree's entrance measures approximately one meter wide and two meters high.

Today, the tree is regarded as a "Site of Significance" by the local Aboriginal community. Signage at the site highlights that the tree is protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act 1972 and that its significance stems from its use as a rest point for police and escorted Aboriginal prisoners en route to Derby. The sign also highlights that the tree has a lesser-known connection with Aboriginal traditional religious beliefs. Visitors are cautioned about the presence of snakes within the tree.

Myall's Bore

The Bore, originally named Miyarli Well, is situated 7 km from Derby on the Broome Highway. Back in 1912, a man named Mayall dug a bore that extended 322 meters deep. The project amounting to £2,700, resulted in a daily flow of 315,000 litres of water. After serving for several decades, the bore was capped in 1980. Alongside the bore is a colossal 120-metre-long cattle trough constructed by the Road Board in approximately 1920. According to local claims, the trough could cater to the watering needs of up to 1000 cattle at once. The water in the trough was high in minerals and was believed to have therapeutic properties.

William Dampier Memorial

A Bicentennial monument to William Dampier, a crew member of the Cygnet, stands near the Derby jetty. He arrived at the head of King Sound on January 5, 1688, and later wrote A New Voyage Round the World. His observations of the area shaped the British perception of the continent for the next century. Dampier described the locals as the "most miserable People in the world," comparing them to the Hodmadods or Monomatapa, who were wealthier. The people had no houses, skin garments, sheep, poultry, or fruits of the earth. They were tall and thin with great heads, round foreheads, and great brows, with half-closed eyes to keep the flies out. They never opened their eyes, which prevented them from seeing far away unless they looked up.

Other Attractions

Mowanjum Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre

A visit to the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre is a must-do when in Derby. The Wandjina figures, unique to the area, are a visual treat and hold significant cultural and religious importance to the Worrorra, Wunambal, and Ngarinyin people.

The Western Australian Museum sheds light on these figures, describing them as the creator beings of the Dreaming, who are responsible for the world and everything in it. The figures are usually painted as full-length or head-and-shoulder figures and are often found in caves and rock shelters throughout the Kimberley. The Mowanjum Centre, located on Gibb River Road, is open seven days a week from May to September and from Monday to Friday from October to April. It remains closed in January.

Windjana Gorge National Park

At the entrance to Windjana Gorge, visitors are greeted with a sign that explains the gorge's origins. The Devonian period saw the formation of a massive reef made up of lime-secreting organisms. The reef, which was even larger than the Great Barrier Reef, extended from the Indian Ocean into what is now the Kimberley. The gorge's grey cliffs are part of this reef, which is exposed in the walls of Geigie and Windjana gorges inland of Fitzroy Crossing. The visitor is also informed of the presence of freshwater crocodiles in the pools and the area's long Aboriginal history dating back 60,000 years. The gorge also once played host to megafauna, including huge kangaroos and wombats. The riverbed walk is a highlight of any visit to the gorge, and the concept of walking through a fossilized coral reef is a unique experience.

The Horizontal Falls

The Horizontal Falls is a tidal waterfall formed by narrow channels and a tidal range of up to 13 meters in Talbot Bay, surrounded by steep cliffs. Only boats and seaplanes can access the area, where the tide typically ranges from 8-9 meters and can reach 13 meters during summer king tides. The cliffs, separated from the Indian Ocean by two narrow cliffs, are cut by two gorges. When the tide turns, the gorges become like wild rivers as the tide rushes in and out.

The rush of water is akin to a waterfall, produced by the ebb and flow of some of the largest tides on the planet. The amount of water flowing through the gorges during a King Tide is equivalent to the water in Sydney Harbour. Visitors can take a seaplane ride from Derby to witness the falls, which lasts for about six hours and includes a Jet Stream boat ride lasting approximately 30 minutes.

During the ride, passengers hold on to a metal bar and dig their knees into the boat's sides to gain a firm grip as they experience the rapids on a particularly violent river. The water boils and bubbles as it cascades into Talbot Bay from what seems like a mirror-like lake.

Fun Facts

Distance from Perth: 2,392 km North of Perth
Population: 3,009
Postcode: 6728
Founded: 1883